Konya, from inside the a-whirl of its very own

We t is the cardio regarding Poultry. Konya, a neighbor hood off a million souls, leg squats slap in the middle of Anatolia’s nuts ordinary, surrounded by open, limitless prairie. Turkey’s extremely culturally conservative area, Konya looks to start with are an area out-of rigid headscarves and you will foreboding beards, away from ostentatiously observed pieties and you can taboo drinks. But uncovering Konya is easy – getting right here, in the middle of the dated area, in the tomb out-of turquoise ceramic tiles, try Jelaluddin Rumi.

Rumi is one of the world’s very read poets. During the his existence, and because his passing inside 1273, pilgrims have come in order to Konya. Today, Rumi’s tomb is actually Turkey’s next extremely-decided to go to site visitors attraction pursuing the Topkapi Castle within the Istanbul. Rumi are a mystic, a beneficial Sufi saint exactly who adored all the religions, and whoever individual faith are like. His supporters carry out (nevertheless carry out) beat on their own in trance and you can dance, often spinning such tops all day.

Discover a massive, unbelievable new municipal auditorium where so it tender spinning people ballet are did, and any level of charming sleek-eyed mystics in the carpeting sites, cafes and you can gothic bazaars, all of the happier in order to receive one an exclusive zikhr

This type of whirling dervishes are actually the new symbol away from Turkey’s tourism techniques, and sip tea on the Istanbul lodge reception watching specific bad bloke during the a taller beige believed hat whirling to have your enjoyment. On the real deal, whether or not, find Dhulikhel women online already been heree in order to Konya and you arrive at Turkey’s spirit. During the Rumi’s words:

« Anybody who you are, started Even though you is A keen infidel, a beneficial pagan, or an effective fireworshipper, been All of our brotherhood isn’t certainly one of depression However has actually broken Your vows out-of repentance one hundred moments, started. »

Just about every season as 1983, I was coming to the two million-or-therefore travelers who see Konya annually. Some are Turkish, some Iranians (who claim Rumi because their very own, as he typed within their code and you can was born in eastern Persia) and additionally improve pilgrimage.

Unlike and also make Konya a halt for the a bus tour, I will suggest staying for a few weeks, soaking-up the feeling, restaurants a few of Turkey’s top lamb, watching its better Seljuk tissues and you can – maybe – falling crazy about Rumi. You can travel within the inexpensively off Istanbul, where additionally there is a scruffy, atmospheric train, or come by road. Konya is in easy reach of the cave dwellers and you will carpeting suppliers away from Cappadocia.

Rumi arrived here because a beneficial boy, whenever Konya got been an area for two,000 decades. It was established of the Hittites, who have been been successful of the Phrygians, then Lydians, Persians, Cappadocians, the new kings of Pergamon and Romans, just who known as place Iconium. Saints Paul and Barnabus each other preached right here, but of the 1071 brand new Seljuks, an excellent Turcoman tribe, was basically in charge, and their architectural legacy endures.

The Karatay Medrese regarding 1251 is a masterpiece off elaborate tiling and you may harmonious domes. It’s today the latest Art gallery from Ceramic tiles and you may Ceramics, whoever articles retain the vibrancy and punch that they had whenever very first discharged. Nearby, this new Ince Minarali Medrese became the newest Museum from Brick and you can Wood Carving, that’s way less inactive than just You will find caused it to be sound. These houses whet your appetite to find the ornately tiled Sircali Medrese, and breathtaking Sahip Ata mosque: in place of a lot of new Muslim world, inside the Chicken you are motivated to check out mosques, almost any your own spiritual preferences.

At the junction of the old city as well as unappealing this new neighbor ‘s the Alaaddin mosque, the new city’s vantage area, whose breathtaking black pulpit and you may sensitive prayer-market are from 1155 (the latest cutting-edge was completed in 1221). New boulevard radiating from this point will bring you to Rumi’s tomb, where a lot more afterwards. Rumi is recognized to Turks because the Mevlana (the brand new Sainted One to), and after this Konya is during thrall to Mevlanamania.

Once i very first appeared, Mevlana’s followers, the Mevlevi, was in fact a prohibited organisation, tolerated just for its « folkloric dance » and whirlings. Conferences happened secretly, dishonestly.

I pointed out eating, as well. Konya’s mutton-centric cuisine is excellent. Etli ekmek is a lengthy, narrow roll-upwards pizza pie bequeath with delicately spiced mince, and you can Konya kebab are a lamb shank, very much slower roasted and you may supported for the a cushion off bread that have a nice yellow onion. Best was at Konak (Restoran, Akcesme mah. Piriesat Cad. No 5, +90 332 352 85 47), whoever soup and home made natural yogurt try paradise-made.

Thus, remarkably given, along with of many cups of nice tannic beverage in you, help make your treatment for Rumi’s tomb. You join the awestruck, this new interested therefore the fervent. A mysterious twinkly white performs to the tombs from Rumi and you will their followers. The brand new wall space is padded with calligraphy, therefore the ceilings was a beneficial kaleidoscope of fantastically conducted arabesques. Rumi’s tomb is included in greatly stitched content from gold, and seems to shine light and peace and you will mercy.

Are moved, to have is like

Several of their other pilgrims have a tendency to realize Korans, although some Rumi’s poetry. Very just take pictures, although this is purely forbidden. You’ll find individuals who cry quietly, and people who make fun of aloud; people that reflect non-stop, and people who hurry because of.

To play privately and you may insinuating alone into the consciousness is the ney, an effective reed flute. It may sound such as for instance breathy air, but is actually the voice from fire, and this increases and you will drops inside us. This is simply not certain sullen religious whining, nevertheless the voice out-of craving, regarding communion, of one’s cardiovascular system. You’ve got it – it’s heart songs, and it really provides you with. So come.

Turkish Air companies (020-7471 6666) flies to Konya via Istanbul out-of Heathrow, Stansted, Birmingham and you may Manchester, of ?219 rtn inc fees. Istanbul to Konya of the railway costs from around ?24 get back, or about ?thirty-six come back by bus. Lodge Balikcilar has actually bed room or just around ?70 (while having provides cool beers). Lodge Dergah (+ninety 332 351 76 61) room around ?20. Tickets observe the spinning dervishes are without the new travelers work environment, about Mevlana’s tomb. Mete Horzum from the SeleneTour (+ninety 532 564 9192, ) arranges private whirling and zikhr away from ?30pp.